Chinese New Year in Bangkok
Being in Bangkok for Chinese New Year, I figured the best way to ring in the Year of the Tiger was to head to the Big Mango’s very own Chinatown.
Khae and I took a taxi down the road from Banglamphu, and despite heavy traffic, we soon found ourselves in the midst of the festivities. Revelers clad in red lined the streets, celebrating the mixed Thai-Chinese heritage that gives Bangkok its unique cultural identity. Soon, we came to a building elaborately decorated with red paper lanterns. People were waiting outside along the sidewalks, as if for a parade. Khae overheard someone say that the King’s daughter, Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn, would soon be arriving to preside at the opening ceremony, and everyone was waiting to catch a glimpse of the beloved royal.
Khae and I joined the throng, and I felt like a bona fide paparazzo as I snapped pictures of the crowd and the growing throng of policemen–and wondered whether I’d be able cop my first royal photo. Unfortunately, a police officer told me to put my camera away. Khae informed me that up until recently, Thais weren’t even supposed to look members of the royal family in the eyes or face.
Finally, Her Royal Highness arrived by motorcade, and I managed to observe her august visage for approximately one and a half seconds as she walked from her car into the building, surrounded by what appeared to be high-ranking police or military officers.
After everyone cleared the scene, Khae and I turned to the wilder festivities down the street: what we found was an open-air street fair, boasting all kinds of food and other, more random, stuff for sale in booths and on tarps spread out on the ground. I decided to forgo the tiny (real) pet rabbits in fancy dress, as well as the ubiquitous Chinese dragon toys, but ended up buying a knock-off Led Zeppelin t-shirt for 100 Baht (about $3 US). There was also a lion dance, and a number of other street performers were likewise on the scene.
Soon, we got hungry. I had already eaten dinner earlier, so I contented myself with a dish of chopped up…. um, what appeared to be an assortment of various kinds of hot dogs, drizzled with ketchup; while Khae sat down to a bowl of Chinese noodle soup with mushrooms. In addition to the expected selection of Chinese delicacies, the whole street seemed to be stuffed with big bags of dried fruit and candies. There were also a number of little booths selling dishes of fresh chopped strawberries with sugar, which Khae seemed to enjoy.
Finally, exhausted from pushing our way through the crowds, we caught a taxi back to Banglamphu. I’m sure the revelry continued well on into the night, but sometimes a traveler can only handle so much of Bangkok’s raucous nightlife. In any case, I believe I got what I’d wanted: an authentic taste of Chinese New Year in Bangkok.
